.As 


UNIVERSITY    OF    OKLAHOMA    BULLETIN 


New  Series  No.  172. 


University  Studies  No.  9 


UNIVERSITY     OF     OKLAHOMA 
BULLETIN 


THE  JOURNAL  OF  JAMES  AKIN  JR. 

Edited  by 
EDWARD  EVERETT  DALE 


NORMAN,  OKLAHOMA 
JUNE   1,   1919 


'y  University  of  Oklahoma  Bulletin,  published  by  the  university,  is  issued 
semi-monthly.  Entered  at  the  postoffice  at  Norman,  as  second  class  matter, 
tinder  act  of  congress  of  August  24,  1912.  Accepted  for  mailing  at  special  rate 
of  postage,  provided  for  in  Section  1103,  act  of  October  3rd,  1917,  authorized  •« 
July  8th,  1918. 


PREFACE 

This  is  the  first  of  a  series  of  historical  studies,  or  leaflets, 
to  be  published  by  the  University  of  Oklahoma.  These  studies 
are  to  consist  of  original  documents  of  western  and  south- 
western history,  and  are  to  be  issued  at  regular  intervals  in 
the  future. 

In  this  document  the  original  text  has  been  preserved 
throughout.  Notes  are  added  when  it  kas  seemed  necessary  to 
explain  statements,  but  the  spelling,  punctuation,  and  capitaliza- 
tion are  given  just  as  they  appear  in  the  journal  itself. 

The  editor  wishes  to  acknowledge  his  indebtedness  to  Mr. 
P.  C.  Slack  of  Edmond,  Oklahoma,  who  first  told  him  of  the 
manuscript  and  through  whose  agency  it  was  obtained,  and  to 
Mrs.  D.  H.  Hartley  of  Hillsboro,  Iowa,  for  her  courtesy  in 
lending  this  journal,  which  she  justly  prizes  very  highly.  He 
also  desires  to  express  his  thanks  to  Professor  Lyman  P. 
Wilson  of  the  University  of  Oklahoma  for  assistance  rendered 
in  photographing  the  specimen  pages  herein  given,  and  to  two 
of  the  editor's  own  students,  Mr.  Lanson  D.  Mitchell,  and  Mr. 
Morris  L.  Wardell,  for  helping  to  trace  on  the  map  the  route 
followed  by  James  Akin  and  his  party. 


INTRODUCTION 

In  the  spring  of  1852  a  small  party  started  from  south- 
eastern Iowa  to  journey  overland  to  Oregon.  The  little  group 
consisted  of  four  families,  all  apparently  related  to  one  another. 
Stuart  Richey  was  the  leader.  Besides  himself  and  family 
there  were  Caleb  Richey  and  family,  James  Ingram  and  fam- 
ily, and  James  Akin  and  family..  The  exact  number  of  persons 
is  unknown  but  was  probably  between  thirty  and  forty.  .  They 
were  traveling  in  ox  wagons  with  perhaps  about  five  yoke  of 
oxen  to  each  wagon.  With  the  party  was  a  young  man  about 
eighteen  years  of  age,  James  Akin  Jr.,  who  kept  a  brief  journal 
of  the  trip  in  which  he  recorded  the  daily  happenings. 

It  is  not  at  all  surprising  that  this  little  expedition  should 
have  started  to  Oregon  about  this  time.  This  was  the  period 
of  the  "Oregon  fever".  For  several  years  Oregon  had  been  a 
veritable  Land  of  Promise  to  the  people  of  the  Mississippi 
Valley,  and  even  to  many  of  those  of  the  extreme  East.  The 
journal  of  Lewis  and  Clark  published  some  forty  years  before 
by  the  great  banker,  Nicholas  Biddle  of  Philadelphia,  had  at- 
tracted much  attention.  Astoria  had  been  founded  by  the 
Pacific  Fur  Company,  had  been  lost  during  the  War  of  1812  and 
regained  soon  after  the  close  of  that  war.  Hall  Kelly,  the 
Boston  schoolmaster,  had  organized  in  1829  the  American 
Society  for  the  Settlement  of  Oregon  Territory,  and  had  urg- 
ed migration  to  Oregon  as  a  means  of  wresting  that  region 
from  Great  Britain,  that  still  held  equal  rights  there  with 
the  United  States  under  the  Joint  Occupation  Treaty.  Na- 
than Wyeth  and  Ewing  Young  had  visited  the  Oregon  Coun- 
try in  the  early  '30's  and  their  stories  were  well  known.  Also 
the  Lees  had  founded  a  mission  on  the  Willamette  River 
in  1834..  Others  had  joined  them  and  in  1836  the  Whit- 
mans and  the  Spaldings  had  crossed  over  to  Oregon  to  found 
the  famous  Wailatpu  Mission  on  the  Walla  Walla  River.  In 

1842  Whitman   had    made    his    ride    to    the    East    returning    in 

1843  in   company   with    a   numerous   party   of   settlers.       John 
C.    Fremont,    the    "Pathfinder"      had      explored      and      mapped 
much  of  the  route  in  1842  and  1843,  though  it  had  long  been 
well  known  to  the  fur  traders. 

All  this  had  aroused  a  great  interest  in  Oregon  and  the 
signing  of  the  treaty  of  June  15,  1846  with  Great  Britain 


4  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  OKLAHOMA 

making  the  forty-ninth  parallel  the  boundary  line  from  the 
Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Pacific  gave  the  United  States  com- 
plete title  to  all  of  the  so-called  "Oregon  Country."  Migra- 
tion was  still  further  encouraged  by  the  acquisition  of  Cali- 
fornia and  by  the  gold  discoveries. 

Then  came  the  Donation  Act  of  1850  which  gave  to  every 
citizen  of  the  United  States  who  had  settled  in  Oregon  prior 
to  the  passage  of  the  act  three  hundred  and  twenty  acres 
of  land  and  to  all  Americans  who  should  settle  there  be- 
fore 1853  one  hundred  and  sixty  acres  for  each  man  and  an 
additional  hundred  and  sixty  acres  for  his  wife.  Remem- 
bering that  the  Richey  and  Akin  party  left  Iowa  in  the 
spring  of  1852  and  arrived  in  Oregon  in  due  time  to  take 
advantage  of  this  legislation,  we  can  hardly  doubt  that  this 
was  one  motive  which  led  to  the  journey. 

Moreover,  it  seems  that  the  Richeys  and  Akins  were 
pioneers  by  instinct.  Their  ancestors  had  left  Culpepper 
County,  Virginia  for  Boonesborough,  Kentucky  where  they 
settled  soon  after  the  founding  of  that  place  by  Boone  in  1775. 
In  1808  they  had  removed  to  Pendleton  County  Kentucky 
where  they  again  settled  in  the  wilderness  not  far  from  the 
Licking  River.  From  there  they  had  removed  to  Illinois 
and  located  near  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  Peoria.  A 
few  years  later  they  had  again  removed,  this  time  to  Iowa, 
settling  in  Henry  County  near  Salem,  at  a  time  when  the 
nearest  post-office  was  Fort  Madison,  thirty  miles  away. 
Their  next  journey  is  the  one  recorded  in  the  pages  of 
James  Akin's  journal. 

We  may  wish  that  the  author  of  this  document  had 
been  less  brief  in  his  entries.  There  were  remarkable  hap- 
penings on  this  journey  the  details  of  which  would  no  doubt 
form  interesting  reading.  And  yet  anyone  who  knows  the 
West  and  life  in  camp  and  on  the  trail  can  read  much  be- 
tween the  lines  of  James  Akin's  meager  record  of  events. 
Even  the  brief  entry  made  August  19th  at  the  ford  of  Snake 
River  suggests  many  things: 

"Try  all  day  to  get  the  cattle  across  and  could  not." 

A  simple  statement  of  fact  and  yet  anyone  accustomed 
to  the  ways  of  the  trail  can  fairly  see  that  group  of  men 
pushing,  pulling,  hauling  and  sweating  as  they  try  in  every 
possible  way  to  get  the  stubborn  oxen  into  the  water  and 
across  the  river,  while  the  women  busy  themselves  about 
camp  preparing  food  or  washing  clothing.  One  can  easily 


THE  JOURNAL  OF  JAMES  AKIN  JR.  5 

imagine  the  shouts  and  cries;  the  new  plans  tried  out;  the 
councils  of  the  leaders  and  the  decision  to  try  something 
else.  An  all  day  task  and  then  at  night  nothing  but  failure! 
Very  likely  James  Akin  was  too  tired  that  evening  to  enter 
more  than  a  single  line  in  his  journal.  Or  perhaps  he 
thought  the  less  said  about  that  day  the  better! 

The  student  of  history  may  also  find  in  this  document 
many  facts  given  unconsciously  by  James  Akin.  Facts  in 
regard  to  the  road,  the  edge  of  settlement  at  this  time,  the 
prices  of  various  commodities,  the  eastern  limit  of  the  buf- 
falo and  the  relations  between  the  whites  and  the  Indians. 
Above  all  the  historian  may  find  here  the  simple  recital  of 
hardships  and  dangers  met  in  a  fashion  typical  of  our  front- 
iersmen. Seven  of  the  little  party  died  on  the  journey, 
but  apparently  there  was  no  thought  of  becoming  discourag- 
ed or  of  turning  back. 

James  Akin  is  a  type.  He  and  his  little  group  of  re- 
latives and  friends  are  but  a  drop  in  that  great  flood  of  migra- 
tion that  swept  westward  over  the  plains  during  several  de- 
cades of  the  ninteenth  century;  a  migration  that  peopled 
our  Pacific  coast  states  and  builded  magnificent  cities  and  a 
splendid  civilization  beyond  the  Rockies  in  what  had  hither- 
to been  a  wilderness. 

And  so  the  creaking  ox  wagon  rolling  slowly  along  the 
dusty  trail  bore  with  it  more  than  the  family  and  the  house- 
hold goods  of  Stuart  Richey  or  of  James  Akin.  It  was 
one  of  many  thousands  that  were  freighted  with  the  hopes 
and  dreams  of  a  people,  with  the  destiny  of  a  nation  whose 
watchword  has  ever  been  "Westward,"  until  the  most  re- 
mote corners  of  our  frontier  empire  have  at  last  been  pen- 
etrated and  American  civilization  carried  still  beyond  to  re- 
mote islands  of  the  Pacific. 

EDWARD    EVERETT    DALE 

Norman,   Oklahoma, 

February  1,  1919. 


JOURNAL  OF  JAMES  AKIN,  Jr. 

Original  owned  by  Mrs.  D.  H.  Hartley  of  Hillsboro,  Iowa. 

(Obtained  through  the  courtesy  of  Mr.  P.  C.  Slack  of  Edmond, 

Oklahoma.) 

Tuesday,  April  15,  1852 

first  day  crossed  fish  creek  three-fourths  of  a  mile  roads 
good  a  plenty  of  watter  and  wood. 

Friday  16 

Rains  till  noon  started  came  to  Salem  left  Salem  at  3  o'clock 
Traveled  6  miles  a  plenty  of  wood  not  much  watter.  (1) 

Saturday  17 

Start  pretty  soon  rains  nearly  all  day  roads  very  muddy 
traveled  15  miles  plenty  of  watter  and  wood. 

Sunday  18  1852 

start  at  9  o'clock-roads  very  bad.  Pass  Birmingham  &  Win- 
chester, camp  at  libertyville.  corn  55  cts.  per  bushel  hay 
50  per  cwt — good  place  to  camp.  (2) 

Monday  19 

Roads  better  travel  15  miles  passed  through  agency.  camp 
in  a  good  place — plenty  of  wood  not  much  watter. 

Tuesday  20th 

Roads  very  good  travel  16  miles  passed  altumira  pretty  cold 
day — camp  in  good  place — plenty  of  wood  and  water  over- 
took Caleb  Richey.  (3) 

Wednesday  April  21,  1852 

bad  roads  travel  16  miles  cold  weather  passed  Eddyvill  about 
noon  bad  place  to  camp  plenty  wood  and  watter. 

1.  Salem   is   in   the   southwest   part   of    Henry   County.        The   Akins   and 
Richeys  apparently   lived  a  short  distance   east   of   Salem. 

2.  Winchester    and    Birmingham    is    the    order    in    which    he    should    have 
placed    them,    as    Winchester    was    passed    first.        We    shall    note    the    steady 
lowering    in   the    price    of    corn    and    other   agricultural   products    as   the    party 
proceeds     west,     owing    to     increasing     distance     from     market.         Once     they 
pass    the    farming    frontier    however    and    reach    the    Great    Plains,    we    shall 
find  prices  increasing  enormously   in  the  fur-trading  and   mining  region. 

3.  Apparently    Caleb     Richey    had    started    a    little    in    advance    of    the 
rest    of    the    party.     They    were    traveling    nearly    due    west    until    they    pass- 
ed   Winchester.        They    then    turned    north-west    and    traveled    parallel    with 
the    Des    Moines    River. 


THE  JOURNAL  OF  JAMES  AKIN  JR.  7 

Thursday  22 

travel  15  miles  Fine  weather  crossed  the  demoines  river  in 
the  evening  good  place  to  camp  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  (4) 

Friday  23 

Travel  3  miles  and  then  stoped  &  stayed  the  balance  of  the 
day  cool,  dandy  weather  oats  40  cts  a  dozen  corn  50  cts  per 
bushel  good  place  to  camp.  (5) 

Saturday  apr.  24  1852 

Traveld  12  miles  roads  hilley  and  rough — cloudy  weather, 
passed  knoxville  crossed  white  breast  creek  and  camped  on 
the  bank  bought  hay. 

Sunday  25  1852 

Layed  by  all  day  cloudy  weather  Hearded  all  the  cattle  all 
day — good  place  to  camp  plenty  of  wood  and  water. 

Monday  26th  1852 

traveled  12  miles — cool  weather — passed  pleasantvill  crossed 
South  river  &  camped  on  the  bank  of  the  river — good  place 
to  camp. 

Tuesday  27th 

Traveled  16  miles — very  good  praierie  road  Palmyra-Indian- 
ola  camp  in  the  prairie — good  place  to  camp  a  plenty  of 
water  not  much  wood. 

Wednesday  28th 

Traveled  16  miles — very  good  roads  crossed  big  creek  &  camp- 
ed on  the  bank  of  the  same  creek  good  place  to  carn^p 
plenty  wood  &  water.  (6) 

Thursday  April  29th  1852 

Traveled  7  miles  warm  day  &  good  roads  crossed  middle 
river  &  camped  on  the  north  side  2y2  miles  of  wintersett 
good  place  to  camp  stop  at  noon. 

Friday  30th  1852 

Start  at  9  o'clock — travel  3  miles  and  pass  Wintersette  roads 
very  good — windy  cold  day  stop  &  camp  1  mile  west  of 

4.  No  doubt  at  the  ferry  southwest  of  Oskaloosa.  Their  route  then 
led  northwest  to  Knoxville;  from  there  almost  straight  west  to  Winchester.. 

5..  Forty  cents  a  dozen  for  oats  in  the  sheaf.  It  will  be  observed  that 
corn  is  cheaper  here  than  further  east. 

6.  Probably  a  stream  flowing  into  Middle  River  which  they  crossed 
seven  miles  further  on.  They  were  not  far  from  the  boundary  line  be- 
tween Warren  and  Madison  counties. 


8  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  OKLAHOMA 

Wintersette  camp  in  a  deep  hollow  good  place  to  camp  47 
wagons  on  the  same  ground.  (7) 

Saturday  1st  1852 

Start  early  travel  20  miles  very  good  roads  camped  in  the 
prairie — plenty  watter — carry  wood  3-4  mile  herd  the  cattle 
till  9  oclock. 

Sunday  2nd 

Very  cold  windy  morning  start  about  noon  &  travel  8  miles 
camp  in  the  prairie  &  haul  wood  with  us — not  much  grass 
plenty  water  rains  at  night. 

Monday  May  3d  1852 

Start  early  Travel  15  mWes — cool  weather  camp  in  the  prairie 
good  place  to  camp — plenty  wood  and  water — more  grass 
than  common  mudy  branch. 

tuesday  May  4th  1852 

Start  early  travel  18  miles — pretty  day — plenty  of  grass  a 
plenty  of  watter  camp  in  the  prairie — drive  the  cattle  a  half 
mile  to  grass.  (8) 

Wednsday  5th 

Start  earley/— travel  15  miles — good  roads — warm  day — rains 
at  night — camp  in  the  prairie — plenty  of  watter  &  grass  Good 
place  to  camp — no  timber. 

Thursday  May  6th  1852 

travel  16  miles,  good  roads  but  muddy.  rained  part  of  the 
day  camp  in  a  beautiful  place  on  the  bank  of  the  creek  grass 
plenty. 

Friday  7th  May  1852 

Start  early  and  travel  2y2  miles  to  the  creek  &  wait  4  hours 
to  cross  &  the  boat  Sunk  good  roads  in  the  prairie,  camp  in 
the  prairie  plenty  water  &  grass  no  wood.  (9) 

Saturday  8th  1852 

Travel  15  miles — good  roads  camp  in  Kainsville  bad  place  to 
camp — plenty  wood  &  watter  but  no  grass  beautiful  day 
great  many  camped  around.  (10) 

7.  The    number    of    wagons    camped    here     shows    the     extent    of    the 
migration    westward    this    spring. 

8.  It    will    be    observed    that    they    are    making    long    daily    drives    for 
ox    teams;    an    average    of    sixteen    or    seventeen    miles    a    day.        The    fact 
that    they    must    drive    the    cattle    half    a    mile    to    grass    indicates    that    many 
others   have   passed   over   this   route    recently   and    the    grass   near   the   camp- 
ing  places    has   been    eaten    down. 

9.  Probably    the    West      Nishnabatona      not      far      from      thq      present 
town    of    Oakland. 

10.  This   was   at   the   site   of  the   present  city  of   Council  Bluffs,   a  well 
known  crossing  on  the  Missouri  at  this  time. 


THE  JOURNAL  OF  JAMES  AKIN  JR.  9 

Sunday  May  9th  1852 

Travel  3  miles  and  camp  on  the  banks  of  the  Missourie  river 
beautiful  day  good  place  to  camp  plenty  wood  water  &  grass. 

Monday  10th  May  1852 

Camped  in  the  Same  place  corn  20  cts  per  bushel  new  boat 
started  Fine  day — many  Indians  around  tents.  (11) 

tuesday  llth  May  1852 

beautiful  day  Fery  boat  sunk  2  or  3  drowned  heard  the  cattle 
plenty  of  grass — flour  16  dollars  per  Ib.  (12) 

Wednsday  may  12  1852 

camped  in  the  same  place  rains  in  the  evening  a  man  killed 
by  the  wagon  running  over  him  Teams  coming  in  all  the 
time. 

Thursday  13th  May  1852 

camped  in  the  same  place  beautiful  day — a  great  many  teams 
on  the  ground — not  much  grass  river  raised  a  little. 

Friday  14  May  1852 

camped  in  the  same  place — boat  Bought  flour  at  16  dollars 
per  barel  beautiful  day — pack  up  the  wagons. 

Saturday  15th  May  1852 

Start  early  and  travel  14  miles  up  the  river  to  another  ferry 
warm  day — camp  in  2  miles  of  the  ferry — good  place  to  camp 
plenty  wood  water  &  gras  rains  at  night. 

Sunday  16th  1852 

camp  in  the  same  place — cold  windy  day — good  place  to  camp 
plenty  wood  and  water  and  grass  great  many  teams  pass.  (13) 

Monday  17th  May  1852 

Start  early  &  go  to  the  river  boat  could  not  get  to  cross 
camp  here  and  drive  the  cattle  back  about  2  miles  to  grass. 

Tuesday  18th  May  1852 

commence  crossing  in  the  morning  and  cross  nearly  all  day 
very  windy  cross  till  midnight  get  all  the  cattle  cross  except 
10  yoke. 

11.  The    great    drop    in    the    price    of    corn    should    be    noted.        This    is 
the    first    mention    he    makes    of    Indians.     They    were    probably    from    across 
the   river   and   came   to   the   camp   to   trade   or   to   ask   for   food. 

12.  Barrel    no    doubt.        The    "two    or    three    drowned"    obviously    refers 
to     other    emigrants    encamped    at    the    same    place,    as    does    the    following 
entry;     "man     killed     by     wagon     running     over       him."  The       next       two 
entries  also   indicate  the  large   number  of  emigrants   who  used  this   ferry. 

13.  Probably   not  far   from  the   site   of  the   present   town   of   Crescent. 


10  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  OKLAHOMA 

Wednsday  19th  1852 

Fery  the  other  2  teams  early  in  the  morning  Start  and  travel 
12  miles  heard  the  cattle  twice  camp  in  a  good  place.  (14) 

Thursday  20th  May  1852 

Travel  15  miles  cross  Elkhorn  river — wagons  2  dollars  a 
piece  camp  in  a  good  place.  (15) 

Friday  May  21st  1852 

Start  early — travel  10  miles  rains  nearly  all  day.  camp  at 
2  o'clock  get  scard  at  nothing  &  went  back  a  mile  for 
company,  camp  on  platte  river.  (16) 

Saturday  22nd 

Travel  16  miles  warm  weather — travel  up  platte  river  bottom 
camp  &  then  leave  on  account  of  small  pox  drive  on  to 
good  place  to  camp.  (17) 

Sunday  23nd 

Traveled  15  m  les  up  platte  river  bottom  bad  roads  seen  30 
Indians  with  their  ponies  loaded  with  buffaloe  skins — good 
place  to  camp.  (18) 

Monday  May  24th  1852 

Traveled  18  miles  to  loup  Fork  Ferry  then  went  up  the 
river  6  miles  in  a  very  good  place — plenty  wood  water  & 
grass. 

Tuesday  25th  May  1852 

Start  early  travel  13  miles  up  loup  Fork  to  the  ferry  cross 
beaver  river — camp  near  loup  fork — bad  place  to  camp. 

Wednsday  May  26th  1852 

Travel  10  m'les — bad  roads  warm  day  cross  loup  fork  in  the 
eavening  deep  fording  with  quick  sand  bottom  good  place 
to  camp.  (19) 

14.  Since   the    preceding   entry    says   they    have    all   the   cattle   across   but 
ten    yoke,    this    would    indicate    that    they    were    working    five    yoke    of    oxen 
to    each    wagon. 

15.  Probably     nearly     straight     east     of     Fremont.     Nebraska.          Many 
men     who     kept    these     ferries    on    the    Oregon    and     California    trails    found 
them   veritable   gold   mines. 

16.  They    were    now   approaching   the    Indian    country.      His    brief    entry; 
"get    scared    at    nothing"    arouses    one's    curiosity    as    to    the    exact    cause    of 
their     fright. 

17.  Small    pox,    cholera    and    other    diseases    were    very    prevalent    along 
these    trails.         James    Akin    and    his    party     probably    encamped     near    other 
emigrants  before  discovering  that  these   people   had   small  pox  among  them. 

18.  This     shows    that    they     were     nearing    the     buffalo     country.         The 
Indians    probably    lived    further    east    and     were    returning    from    a     hunting 
trip. 

19.  Apparently   a   short   distance   east    of   the   present   town   of    Fullerton. 
Nebraska. 


THE  JOURNAL  OF  JAMES  AKIN  JR.  11 

Thursday  27th  May  1852 

Layed  by  all  day — pretty  good  grass — watter  and  wood  plenty 
camp  near  loup  fork — good  place  to  camp  no  Indians 
about  come  to  the  sioux  Indians. 

Friday  28th 

Start  early — travel  18  miles  come  to  the  buffaloe  range  sandy 
roads  camp  in  the  prairie  plenty  of  grass  no  wood  water 
scarce.  (20) 

Saturday  May  29  1852 

Start  early  travel  18  miles  prairie  roads  some  bad  places  to 
cross — saw  the  first  antelope  camp  no  wood 

Sunday  May  30th  1852 

travel  16  miles — very  good  roads — pass  no  timber  crossed 
one  small  creek  camp  near  wood  river  plenty  of  wood  and 
grass — not  much  water. 

Monday  31st  May  1852 

Travel  15  miles — very  good  roads — travel  in  y2  mile  of  platte 
river  all  day  camp  in  a  good  place  drive  cattle  to  platte  river 
to  water.  (21) 

Tuesday  June  1st  1852 

Start  early — travel  17  miles — very  good  roads  water  the  cattle 
at  noon  in  platte — camp  in  good  place — plenty  water  and 
grass  no  wood. 

Wednsday  June  2nd  1852 

Travel   20    miles — very   hot   calm   day — roads   very   dusty   cros 
Elum  and   Buffalo   Creeks   camp — not  much  grass — drive   them 
two  miles  to  water — rainey  and  mudy  night  grand  iland. 

Thursday  June  3nd  1852 

travel  18  m  les — muddy  roads — cool  day — came  to  platte  river 
again — saw  5  graves — camp  near  platt  no  wood — some  buffalo 
chips — came  to  alkali.  (22) 

20.  A   few  miles   east   of  the   west   line   of   Merrick   County.        This   is   an 
interesting  entry  as  it  indicates  the  eastern  limit  of  the  buffalo  range  in   1852. 

21.  The    trail    followed    the    Platte    as    there    was    little    water    elsewhere 
in   this   region. 

22.  Had    it    not    been    for    buffalo    chips    and    cow    chips    the    plainsman 
would    have    had    much    difficulty    in    providing    himself    with    fuel.         Buffalo 
chips    long    afforded     ready    means    for    cooking    his    food    and    warming    his 
camp. 

Within  recent  years  the  editor  has  often  seen  a  pioneer  farmer  driv- 
ing slowly  across  the  prairie,  while  his  children  gathered  cow  chips  and 
threw  them  in  the  wagon.  This  was  his  only  method  for  securing  fuel 
for  the  winter. 


12  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  OKLAHOMA 

Friday  June  4th  1852 

travel  16  miles — good  roads  saw  5  buffalo  in  the  morning 
passed  1  grave — camped  near  platte  good  place  to  camp. 

Saturday  June  5th  1852 

Travel  16  miles— good  roads  but  sandy — crossed  over  a  low 
sandy  bluff  extending  to  the  river — rain  and  wind  in  even- 
ing— camp  in  a  good  place  near  platte. 

Sunday  June  6th  1852 

Travel  20  miles — sandy  roads — crossed  skunk  creek — three 
died  with  the  cholera  along  the  road  camp  on  canion  creek 
no  timber.  (23) 

monday  June  7th  1852 

Travel  14  miles  crossed  canion  creek — passed  the  last  timber 
for  200  miles  took  a  buffalo  hunt — and  wounded  one — camp 
in  a  good  place  near  the  river  buffalo  chips. 

June  8th  Tuesday  1852 

Laid  by  all  day  13  of  the  boys  went  hunting  and  killed 
one  antelope  good  grass  and  buffalo  chips  a  great  manv 
wagons  passing  all  the  time.  (24) 

Wednesday  June  9th  1852 

Travel  19  miles — road  ascends  the  bluff — very  sandy  roads 
cross  north  bluff  forks  and  bluff  creek  camp  in  a  good  place 
— plenty  of  grass  and  chips — water  scarce. 

Thursday  June  10th  1852 

Travel  25  miles — cool  day  and  sandy  roads — platte  river  high — 
springs  along  the  road — camp  in  a  good  place — plenty  of 
grass — water  and  chips. 

June  llth  Friday  1852 

Travel  18  miles  over  very  sandy  bluffs — very  warm  day — 
camp  in  a  bad  place — no  grass  not  much  water  great  many 
campers  in  sight. 

Saturday  June  12th  1852 
Travel    12    miles — till    noon — then    stop    and    stay    the    balance 

23.  The     "three     died     with     the     cholera"     of     course     refers     to     other 
emigrants   on   the   trail   and   not  to   members  of   the   Akin   party. 

24.  They    have    passed    the    forks    of    the    river    and    are    following    up 
the   North   Platte.       They   are   far  out   upon   the   plains,   a  long  distance   from 
civilization.        It    would    be    interesting    to    know    the    details    of    these    hunt- 
ing trips. 


THE  JOURNAL  OF  JAMES  AKIN  JR.  13 

of  the  day — camp  in  a  good  place — a  good  spring — and  plenty 
of  grass — lone  tree. 

Sunday  June   13  1852 

Start  early  and  travel  16  miles — good  roads  and  warm  day 
rains  in  the  evening — good  place  to  camp — plenty  grass  and 
water. 

Monday  June  14th  1852 

Travel  14  miles — sandy  road  cool  day — came  in  sight  of  chim- 
ney rock — bad  storm  in  the  evening — good  place  to  camp 
water  grass  and  chips.  (25) 

Tuesday  June  15th  1852 

Laid  by  all  day — on  account  of  sickness — not  much  grass  Caleb 
Richey  and  his  company  overtook  us — plenty  water — not  much 
chips. 

Wednesday  June  16th  1852 

Louise  Richey  wife  of  Stuart  Richey  died  at  two  oclock  in 
the  morning  Started  at  noon  and  traveled  15  miles — good 
roads  pleasant  weather — camp  on  platt — not  much  grass.  (26) 

Thursday  17th   1852 

Travel  18  miles — very  good  roads — passed  chimney  rock 
drive  the  cattle  2  miles  to  the  river  to  water  at  noon  camp 
near  platte — plenty  of  grass-. 

Friday  June  18th  1852 

Traveled  16  miles — excellent  roads  and  warm  day — passed 
scots  bluffs — camp  near  the  creek — good  spring  burnt  up  one 
old  wagon.  (27) 

25.  This     entry     enables     us     to     locate    the     party     exactly.         Chimney 
Rock    is   famous   land   mark   in   that   region.        It      is      in      western      Nebraska, 
a    little    west    of    where    the    one    hundred    and    third    meridian    crosses    the 
Platte.        It   rises   about    eight   hundred    feet   above   the    river.        Court    House 
Rock,    another   well    known    land    mark,    stands    some    distance    east    of    Chim- 
ney   Rock    and    must    have    been    seen    by    James    Akin,    though    he    does    not 
mention    it.        A    good    picture    of    Chimney    Rock    is    given    in    Birge,    "The 
Awakening  of  the  Desert"  p.   74. 

26.  The    first    death     in    the     Akin     party.         Apparently    they    had     no 
great    fear    of    Indians,    or    they    would    have    been    more    careful    to    keep    to- 
gether.   (See    preceding   entry) 

27.  Scotts'    Bluff    rise    4,662    feet    above    sea    level,    forming    the    highest 

Eoint  in  Nebraska.  They  were  so  named  in  memory  of  the  tragic  death 
y  starvation  of  a  man  named  Scott  who  was  deserted  by  his  companions. 
He  was  ill  and  the  party  was  destitute  of  provisions.  He  managed  to 
make  his  way  to  this  bluff,  where  his  remains  were  found  much  later. 
These  bluffs  rise  abruptly  from  a  comparatively  level  plain  and  form  a 
striking  object,  no  matter  from  which  direction  they  are  seen.  The 
"burnt  up  one  old  wagon"  shows  how  scarce  fuel  must  have  been.  (See 
picture  of  Scott's  Bluffs  in  Birge,  "Awakening  of  the  Desert"  p.  155) 


14  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  OKLAHOMA 

Saturday  19th  1852 

traveled  16  miles — good  roads  and  grass — camp  close  to  platte 
river — good  place  to  camp — plenty  water  and  chips.  .  . 

Sunday  20th  1852 

travel  16  miles — sandy  and  dusty  roads — drive  the  cattle  into 
the  river  at  noon  to  water  camp  near  the  river — plenty  grass 
and  water.  (28) 

Monday  June  21st   1852 

travel  5  miles — camp  within  \l/t  miles  of  platte  river  consider- 
able sickness  in  company  good  place  to  camp.. 

Tuesday   June   22nd   1852 

travel  20  miles  over  the  black  hills — found  no  water  till  2 
oclock  camp  in  good  place — plenty  of  pine  and  cedar  wood  but 
no  water. 

Wednesday  23nd  1852 

Travel  12  miles  very  hilly  bad  roads,  pine  and  cedar  bluffs — 
cloudy  rainy  weather — Elva  Ingram  daughter  of  James  and 
wife  died — camp  in  good  place — plenty  wood  no  water.  (29) 

Thursday  24nd  June   1852 

Travel  15  miles — good  roads  but  hilly — very  cold  rainy  day — 
some  sickness  in  company  camp  in  a  good  place  plenty  wood 
and  grass — not  much  water. 

Friday   25   June    1852 

Travel  18  miles — good  roads — road  returns  to  the  river  warm 
weather — camp  near  platte — plenty  wood  and  water — not  much 
grass. 

Saturday  June  26  1852 

Travel  16  miles — bad  country  platte  river  very  small — not  much 
grass  eny  place,  camp  near  the  river  not  much  wood. 

Sunday  June  27th 

Travel  17  miles — level  sandy  roads  warm  day  passed  no  tim- 
ber— camp  near  the  river — drive  the  cattle  2  miles  to  grass  not 
much  wood. 

29.     This   is  the   second  death   in   the   party. 

28.  They  had  now  crossed  the  line  into  Wyoming,  passing  the  boundary 
of  that  state  about  the  forty-second  parallel,  not  far  from  the  present 
town  of  Pratt.  It  will  be  observed  that  the  Richey-Akin  party  followed 
the  practice  of  most  other  emigrants  in  resting  about  one  day  each  week, 
though  this  day  was  quite  as  likely  to  be  any  other  day  as  Sunday.  They 
traveled  all  day  on  this  Sunday,  the  20th,  but  it  will  be  noticed  that  they 
traveled  but  five  miles  the  following  day,  while  the  preceding  Tuesday 
they  had  "laid  by  all  day — "  he  says  "On  account  of  sickness."  They  simply 
rested  the  day  which  was  most  convenient — that  is,  when  they  came  to  a  good 
place  to  camp  with  an  abundance  of  grass  and  water. 


THE  JOURNAL  OF  JAMES  AKIN  JR.  15 

Monday  June   28th   1852 

Travel  18  miles — sandy  roads  met  6  men  and  16  horses  packing 
through  from  California  passed  considerable  timber  camp  near 
the  river-plenty  grass.  (30) 


Tuesday   June   29th    1852 

Travel  18  miles — sandy  road  and  windy  day — get  to  the  upper 
ferry — camp  near  the  river  drve — good  place  to  camp — plenty 
wood  and  water — drive  the  cattle  3  miles  to  grass. 

Wednesday  June  30th  1852 

Left  the  upper  ferry  on  platte — and  travel  18  miles  without 
water — good  roads  camp  near  a  spring — good  grass  the  cattle 
got  scattered  very  badley. 

Thursday  July  1st   1852 

Travel  12  miles — good  roads  but  dusty  camp  near  platte  river — 
pass  no  timber  not  much  grass — drive  the  cattle  three  miles  to 
grass. 

Friday  July  2nd   1852 

Travel  18  miles — sandy  road  and  dusty — pass  Independence 
rock — cross  sweet  water — pass  devils  gate — camp  near  sweet 
water — not  much  grass.  (31) 


30.  Many    men    returning    from    California    carried    their    goods    on    pack 
horses.        In    some    cases    men    walked    the    entire    distance,    dragging   or   push- 
ing  a    small    hand    cart    in    which    was    loaded   their   food    and    bedding.        The 
editor's    father   who    crossed    the    plains    in    1850   used   to    relate    an    incident   of 
meeting   a    lone    traveler    dragging    a    hand    cart    who,    as    he    approached   them, 
whinnied     like     a    horse    and    demanded     to     know     if    he    would    find    grass 
further   on! 

31.  Sweetwater    joins    the    North    Platte    near    the     south     line    of    Na- 
trona    County,    Wyoming,    a    little    east    of    the    one    hundred    and    seventh 
meridian.        The    valley    of    the    North    Platte,    up    which    they    had    been    fol- 
lovv-ing,    here    turns    due    south    and    the    trail    leaves    it    and    follows    up    the 
valley     of     Sweetwater.         Independence     Rock    was     a    famous    landmark     in 
this    region.         Its    highest    point    is    one    hundred    and    fifty-five    feet    above 
the    river    and    it    covers    an    area    of    twenty-seven    acres.        This    was    a    well 
known    camping    place.        The    rock    is    said    to    have    derived    its    name    from 
the    fact    that    the    first    company    of    whites    to    go    over    this    trail    encamped 
here  on  the  fourth  of  July   and   held  a  celebration   in  honor   of  the  day.        It 
is    covered    with    the    names    of    emigrants    who    have    camped    near    it.        The 
Devil's   Gate,  five   miles  further  on,   is  a   rift   in   the   ridges   of  granite   through 
which     flows    the    Sweetwater.         It    is    about    four    hundred    feet    deep    with 
nc-cirly    vertical    sides,    less   than   three    hundred    feet    apart    at   the    top.        (See 
Chittenden,    History   of  the   Fur   Trade,   Vol.    1,   p.   471. 


16  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  OKLAHOMA 

Saturday  July  3nd  1852 

Travel  18  miles — up  sweet  water — this  river  is  about  40  ft  wide — • 
rattle  snake  mountains  on  the  north  side — snake  indians — 
camp — not  much  grass.  (32) 

Sunday  July  4th  1852 

Laid  by  all  day  to  let  the  cattle  rest — cold  and  windy  day  and 
night — not  much  grass  plenty  sage  brush  for  use  many  teams 
pass  us  wrote  a  letter. 

Monday  July  5th  1852 

Travel  17  miles — sandy  roads — windy  cold  day — cross  sweet 
watter  4  times — bad  to  cross  camp  near  the  river  on  the  south 
side — some  grass  and  sage  brush.  (33) 

Tuesday  July  6th  1852 

Laid  by  all  day — good  grass — sage  brush — great  many  indians 
come  and  camp  in  2  miles  of  us — trade  some  with  us. 

Wednesday  July  7th  1852 

Travel  17  miles  without  water — indians  go  with  us — Joseph 
Mace  overtook  us — not  much  grass — near  indian  camp  1  mile 
above  us. 

Thursday  July  8  1852 

Travel  15  miles — drive  the  cattle  2^miles  to  grass  in  the  morn- 
ing— rough  roads  indians  plenty — camp  in  two  miles  of  the 
river  good  grass  on  the  river.  (34) 

Friday  July  9th   1852 

Travel  15  miles — rough  rocky  roads — cross  north  fork  of  sweet 
water — passed  some  snow — camp  on  south  fork  of  sweet  water 
water  good  grass  at  camp. 

Saturday  July  10th  1852 
Travel  13  miles — good  roads  crossed  sweet  water  the  last  time 

32.  Sweetwater    is    a    remarkably    clear    and    beautiful    mountain    stream. 
The    water    in    that    region    is    usually    alkaline,    so    the    name    "Sweetwater" 
seems   very   fitting.        However   the    French   name   which   was   first   given    was 
Eau    Sucree   and   not   Eau   Douce,  and   there   is   a  tradition   that    it  was   given 
because   some   pack    mules    loaded    with    sugar    were    lost    in    this   stream. 

33.  The    trail    continued    along    Sweetwater    nearly    to    its    source,    cross- 
ing  and    recrossing    it    many    times. 

34.  The    Indians    referred    to    may    be    Sioux,    or    possibly    were    Snake 
Indians. 


18  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  OKLAHOMA 

passed  over  the  summit  of  the  rocky  mountains — camp  at 
pacific  springs — pleasant  day.  (35) 

Sunday  July  llth  1852 

Travel  20  miles — very  good  roads — camp  on  little  sandy — 
drive  cattle  2  miles  to  grass — poor  place  to  camp  plenty  wood. 
(36) 

Monday  July  12th  1852 

Start  about  noon  and  travel  6  miles  to  big  camp  \l/2  miles  above 
the  ford — drive  the  cattle  6  miles  to  grass — good  place  to  camp. 

Tuesday  July  13th  1852 

camp  in  the  same  place  and  let  the  cattle  rest — no  more  water 
for  40  miles  ahead.  . 

Wednesday  July  14th  1852 

Start  at  10  o'clock  and  travel  till  night — stop  for  supper  travel 
till  midnight — stop  an  hour  travel  till  daylight — grass  plenty. 

Thursday  July   15th   1852 

Travel  till  noon  and  reach  green  river,  green  river  quite  low. 
camp  one  mile  below  the  ford — take  the  cattle  onto  an  island 
and  let  them  stay  without  guarding.  (37) 

Friday   16th   1852 

Lay  by  all  day — not  much  grass — warm  weather  green  river 
low — plenty  wood  and  water. 

Saturday  July    17th    1852 

Ford  green  river — good  ford  but  swift  current  2  foot  deep — 
travel  10  miles  to  bear  creek  good  place  to  camp  plenty  grass 
water  and  wood.  . 

35.  They    cross    "over    the     summit     of    the     Rock     Mountains"     through 
South    Pass,    the    most    celebrated    pass    in    the    entire    continental    divide.        It 
is    about    7,500    feet    above    sea    level    and    as    a    mountain    pass    is    disappoint- 
ing.        The    ground    slopes    up    so    gently    through    a    broad    open    valley    that 
the    traveler    is   in    doubt    as    to    which    is    the    highest    point.        Tradition    says 
that    this    pass    was    discovered    by    Etienne    Provost    in    1823.         It    is    almost 
exactly    half    way    between    Independence    Missouri    and    Fort    Vancouver,    so 
from    here    on    pur    party    must    feel    that    they    are    on    the    "home    stretch." 
Pacific  Springs  is  the  first  water  flowing  toward  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

36.  At   Little    Sandy   they   left   the    main   trail,    running   by    Fort    Bridger, 
and     took    what    was     known     as     Sublette's     Cut    Off    or    the     "Dry     Drive." 
This    rejoins    the    main    trail    near    Bear    River.         It    saved    fifty-three    miles 
but    missed    the    supply    point,    Fort    Bridger.         Little    Sandy    is    here    flowing 
south.        It    is    a    tributary    of    Big    Sandy    which    the    next    entry    shows    that 
they  reached  a  few  miles  further  on. 

37.  This    is    the    Colorado    Desert   over    which    they    have    been    traveling. 
Green    River   must   have   been   very   low.        Birge,   who   crossed    it    in   the   sum- 
mer  of    1866.    describes    it    as    very    swift    and    ten    feet    deep    in    some    places. 
(Birge,  "Awakening  of  the  Desert,"  page  279.) 


THE  JOURNAL  OF  JAMES  AKIN  JR.  19 

Sunday  July  18th  1852 

Lay  by  all  day — good  grass  near  camp — sold  one  ox  and  bought 
a  cow  and  an  ox — Gilliams  left  the  Co — some  rain  and  hail  up 
the  creek. 

Monday  July  19th  1852 

Travel  20  miles-^very  hilly  roads  and  broken  country,  windy 
day.  camp  on  a  small  creek  good  grass — plenty  wood  and 
water — rains  at  night. 

Tuesday    20th    1852 

Travel  12  miles — very  hilly  bad  roads — pass  some  quaken  asps 
and  some  graves — camp  on  hams  fork  of  bear  river  very  good 
grass — wood  and  water.  (38) 

Wednesday  July  21st  1852 

Travel  18  miles — rough  hilly  roads — pass  over  the  summit  of 
the  bear  river  mountains  camp  near  a  good  spring  good  grass. 

Thursday  July  22nd   1852 

Travel  14  miles — good  roads  on  bear  river — very  dusty — camp 
on  Bear  river — very  good  grass  on  the  island — plenty  wood — 
musquitoes  very  bad.  (39) 

Friday  July  23nd  1852 

Travel  16  miles — very  bad  roads,  cross  Thomas  fork  on  the 
bridge — paid  $1.00  per  wagon  camp  on  bear  river — good  grass 
musquitoes  bad.  over  take  Caleb  Richey  (40) 

Saturday   July   24th    1852 

Travel  10  miles — very  good  roads  but  dusty  crossed  several 
small  creeks — camp  near  a  good  s'pring — plenty  good  grass  and 
water. 

Sunday  July  25th  1852 

Travel  10  miles — stop  at  10  oclock  and  stay  till  night — very 
good  grass — plenty  wood  and  water — good  place  to  camp — 

38.  Ham's     Fork     is    not    a    tributary     of    Bear    River,     as    James    Akin 
seems  to   think,   but   joins   Black's    Fork   some    distance    north    of    Fort   Bridger 
and    flows    into    Green    River.        It    was    an    important    stream    in    early    days. 
They    were    approaching   the    line    of    the    present    state    of    Idaho,    which    they 
must  have  passed  not  far  from  the  present  town  of  Border. 

39.  Bear    River    rises    nearly    east    of    Salt    Lake    City    and    flows    north 
through    about    two    degrees    of    latitude.         It    then    turns    to    the    west,    and 
swinging    about,     flows    almost    due     south     for    over     a     hundred     miles    into 
Great    Salt    Lake.        A    few    miles    down    Bear    River    the    Sublette    Cut    Off, 
or  "Dry   Drive,"   which   they   had   been   following,   joins  the   main   trail. 

40.  This     is     Thompson's     Fork     and     not     "Thomas     Fork"     as     James 
Akin    writes   it.        The   toll   bridge   shows   how   early   some   enterprising   pioneer 
financier    had    begun    to     realize    a    profit    by     improving    the    difficult     route. 
One  dollar  per  wagon   must  have  brought   him  in   a   golden   harvest,   if   most   o£ 
the   emigrants   crossed   on   his  bridge. 


20  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  OKLAHOMA 

Monday  July  26th  1852 

Travel  16  miles — very  dusty  roads — but  good  passed  Soda  and 
steamboat  springs — camp  on  bear  river — very  bad  watering 
cattle — grass  plenty.  (41) 

Tuesday  27th  1852 

Left  bear  river  travel  18  miles — very  good  dusty  roads — passed 
the  forks  of  Oregon  and  California  roads — plenty  water  good 
place  to  camp.  (42) 

Wednesday  July  28th 

Travel  7  miles — stop  at  11  oclock — stay  on  account  of  sickness 
Parvekee  indians  plenty — camp  on  deep  creek — good  grass.  (43) 

Thursday  July  29th  1852 

Travel  18  miles — rough  roads — passed  plenty  of  spring — camp  on 
a  small  creek — very  good  grass — plenty  of  wood — water  and 
sarvis  berries.  (44) 

Friday  July  30th  1852 

Travel  17  miles — very  rough  and  dusty  roads  showers  in  the 
evening — camp  on  the  creek — plenty  grass — wood  and  water — 
no  wagons  in  sight  today. 

Saturday  July  31st  1852 

Laid  by  all  day — good  grass — Miranda  Jane  Richey  daughter 
of  Caleb  and  Allice  Richey  died — rained  some  in  the  evening — 
wood  and  water  plenty.  (45) 

Sunday   August   1st   1852 

Travel  16  miles — sandy  and  mudy  roads — considerable  rain — 
passed  fort  hall — camped  on  a  fork  of  snake  river — plenty  of 
water — wood  scarce.  (46) 

41.  Soda    Springs    is    at    the    great    bend    of    Bear    River.     There    are 
many   hot    springs    here    and    one    miniature    geyser    quite    near.        The    noise 
of    the    eruptions    of    this    little    geyser    has    caused    it    to    be    named    Steam- 
boat Springs. 

42.  The     Oregan     and     California    trails     fork    just     beyond     the     great 
bend  of  Bear  River. 

43.  He    may    be    trying   to    write    "Portneuf    Indians"    here,    as   they    are 
near  the  Portneuf  River. 

44.  Service  berries,   of   course. 

45.  This  is  the  third  death  recorded  by  James  Akin. 

46.  Fort    Hall    was   on   the   left    bank    of    Snake    River   about    nine    miles 
above  the  mouth   of   Portneuf.        It   had  belonged   to   the    Hudson's   Bay  Com- 
pany and  was  the  first  station  on  Columbian  waters. 


THE  JOURNAL  OF  JAMES  AKIN  JR.  21 

Monday  August  2nd  1852 

Take  an  indian  cut  off  and  travel  10  miles — to  the  other  road 
travel  7  miles  farther  cross  snake  river  camp— grass  plenty.  (47) 

Tuesday  Aug  3rd 

Travel  18  miles — very  rough  roads — passed  the  american  falls 
of  snake  river — camp  on  Bench  creek — grass  very  scarce — wood 
plenty.  (48) 

Wednesday  4  Aug  1852  ; 

Travel  12  miles — stop  at  10  oclock  and  give  the  cjattle  grass 
rained  considerable  camp  on  river  at  the  forks  of  the  Oc^on 
and  California  roads  good  grass. 

Thursday  Aug  5th  1852 

Travel  15  miles  without  water — very  rockey  rough  roads — camp 
on  marsh  creek — drive  cattle  two  miles  to  grass. 

Friday  Aug  6th  1852 

Travel  15  miles — good  roads — passeda  great  many  dead  cattle — 
camp  on  goose  creek — good  grass — plenty  wood  and  water.  (49) 

Saturday  aug  7th  1852 

Travel  25  miles — the  last  13  without  water — very  rought  dusty 
roads  camp  an  hour  after  dark  on  dry  creek  water  scarce — 
grass  plenty.  (50) 

Sunday  aug  8th  1852 

Laid  by  all  day — very  good  grass — great  many  camped  around 
water  very  scarce — great  many  dead  cattle  on  this  creek. 

Monday  aug  9th  1852 

Travel  8  miles — camp  at  2  oclock — very  good  roads  but  dusty — 
camp  on  2nd  rock  creek  very  good  grass — water  plenty.  (51) 

47.  It    is    imposible    to    explain    his    entry;    "cross    Snake    River"    as    the 
trail    followed    the     left    bank    and    his     subsequent     entries    show    that    the 
Richey-Akin    party    continued    down    Snake    River,    following    the    left    bank. 
Perhaps  he   means  they  cross  a  tributary  of   Snake   River. 

48.  American     Falls    are     said     to    be     so     named     because     a    party    of 
American    hunters    coming    down    the     river    in    a    canoe    were    swept    over 
these    falls    and    drowned.     The    next    entry    refers    to    a    second    fork    of    the 
California    and    Oregon    trails.         (See    map    in    Chittenden,    "History    of    the 
Fur  Trade.") 

49.  The    distance   by   the   main   trail   from    Marsh    Creek  to   Goose   Creek 
is    seventeen    miles.        James    Akin    estimates    it    as    fifteen    which    indicates 
that    his    estimates    throughout    may    be    taken    as    approximately    correct. 

50.  This  part  of  the  trail  was  back   some  distance  from  the   river.     Dry 
Creek  flows  into  the  Snake  River  a  few  miles  west  of  the   114th  meridian. 

51.  Rock    Creek    flows    into    the    Snake    near    the    present    city    of    Twin 
Falls. 


THE  JOURNAL  OF  JAMES  AKIN  JR.  23 

Tuesday  aug.  10th  1852 

Travel  12  miles — very  rough  and  dusty  roads  grass  scarce — 
camp  on  2nd  rock  creek — some  grass — water  and  wood  plenty — 
mother  sick  in  the  evening  this  is  James  Akins  wife  that  is  sick. 

Wednesday  aug  llth  1852 

Travel  16  miles — start  very  early — very  bad  watering  place  at 
noon  in  snake  river — stop  at  4  oclock  and  take  the  cattle  to 
grass — start  at  dark  and  travel  8  miles  to  water. 

Thursday  aug  12th  1852 

Travel  3  m'les — stop  and  camp  on  banks  of  snake  river — Lay 
by  the  balance  of  the  day  good  grass  three  miles  off — wood  and 
water  plenty. 

Friday  aug   13th  1852 
Lay  by  all  day — good  grass — wood  and  water  plenty.     (52) 

Saturday  14  aug 

Start  and  travel  12  miles — to  salmon  falls  water  plenty — indians 
fishing.  (53) 

Sunday  15th  aug 

Lay  by  till  sun  down  start  and  travel  till  2  o'clock — stop  and 
sleep  till  day  light. 

Monday  aug  16th  1852 

Travel  till  breakfast — stop  on  good  grass — start  and  leave  the 
road  and  go  to  the  river — very  bad  place  to  water — lay  by  t.ll 
night — start  and  travel  till  1  oclock.  (54) 

Tuesday  aug  17th  1852 

Start  at  daylight  and  travel  6  miles  to  the  crossing  of  snake 
river  lay  by  the  balance  of  the  day — emigrants  going  down  the 
river  in  wagon  beds.  (55) 

Wednsday  18th  august  1852 

Lay  by  all  day  in  same  place — very  bad  place  to  camp — prepar- 
ing to  cross  the  river. 

52.  Apparently    they    lay    by    so    often    partly    on    account    of    sickness. 
Also    they    have    passed    the    worst    part    of    the    journey    and    no    doubt    feel 
themselves    and    cattle    entitled    to    a    little    rest. 

53.  Salmon    Falls    River    flows    into    the    Snake    a    little    above    the    pres- 
ent town  of  Austin. 

54.  It    must    have    been    much    more    pleasant    traveling    at    night    than 
during  the   day,   since   it   was   now   about   the  middle   of   August. 

55.  Probably   the   crossing   referred   to   is  Glenn's"  Ferry,   near  the   mouth 
of     Little     Canon     Creek,     which     flows     into     Snake     River     from     the     north. 
The    entry    "emigrants    going    down    the    river    in    wagon    beds"    is    most    in- 
teresting.        Surely     it     would     be     a     long     and     hazardous     voyage.         There 
would    be    portages    to    make    too    but    it    would    at    least    be    a    change    from 
driving   ox   wagons   over   the   dusty   trail. 


24  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  OKLAHOMA 

Thursday  august  19th 
Try  all  day  to  get  the  cattle  across  the  river  and  could  not. 

Friday   auguast   20th 

Tow  the  cattle  across  the  river  between  the  wagon  beds — ferry 
them  over  in  the  evening  James  Nicholson  starts  in  a  wagon 
bed.  (56) 

Saturday  august  21st  1852 

All  cross  the  river  except  two  and  gone  after  them — cool 
weather. 

Sunday  august  22nd 

Mother  taken  worse  in  the  morning  and  died  about  9  oclock  in 
the  evening  we  are  about  30  miles  below  Salmon  river  falls  on 
the  north  side  of  the  snake  river  Eliza  Akin  is  the  wife  of  James 
Akin.  (57) 

Monday  23nd  august  1852 

Mother  was  buried  about  10  oclock  in  the  morning  about  200 
yards  above  the  crossing  of  the  river — travel  eight  miles  to  a 
spring. 

Tuesday  august  24th 

Lay  by  till  noon  Moses  Rhodes  died  in  the  morning  travel  11 
miles — good  roads  camp  on  dry  creek — water  scarce — grass 
plenty.  (58) 

Wednsday  august  25  1852 

Travel  15  miles — good  roads  but  hilly,  plenty  grass  all  the 
time — wood  and  water  plenty — passed  boiling  hot  springs 
camp  on  beautiful  creek. 

Thursday  august  26th 

Travel  14  miles — very  rocky  creek  camp  at  Charlotte  creek  no 
water  for  the  cattle  grass  and  wood  plenty. 

Friday  august  27th   1852 

Travel  15  miles — hilly  roads  but  good — plenty  of  grass  all  the 
time — camp  on  white  horse  creek — wood  and  water  plenty. 

56.  This    day    and    the    preceding    one    must    have    been    trying.        Per- 
haps   James    Nicholson's    experience    with    refractory    oxen    during    these    days 
was  what  prompted  him  to  risk  flying   "to  other  ills  he   knew  not  of"   rather 
than   bear  the   present  ones  any   longer.        We   can    hardly   fail  to   admire   his 
courage  in  starting  out  in  such  a  frail  craft. 

57.  James    Akin    notes    the    location    here    exactly,    as    the    place    where 
his  mother  died  and  was  buried.       This  was  the  fourth  death  in  the  little  party. 

58.  The    fifth    death    recorded    by    James    Akin.        They    left    the    river 
at    the    crossing,    and    are    traveling    northwest    across    the    country    in   the   di- 
rection of  the   present  city  of   Boise. 


THE  JOURNAL  OF  JAMES  AKIN  JR.  25 

Saturday  august  28 

Travel  20  miles — without  water  good  roads  and  cool  day — camp 
on  Boise  river — this  is  a  beautiful  river — wood  and  grass  plenty. 
(59) 

Sunday  august  29th   1852 

Travel  12  miles — down  Salmon  river — good  grass  all  the  time 
camp  at  2  oclock  good  grass — wood  and  water  hares  plenty 
— got  some  fish  of  the  indians.  (60) 

Bancroft  Library 

Monday  august  30th 

Travel  18  miles — down  Salmon  river — good  roads.  cool  day 
camp  on  Salmon  river — good  grass  wood  and  water. 

Tuesday  august  31st  1852 

Travel  15  miles  down  Salmon  river — cross  the  river — good 
grass — wood  and  water  plenty. 

Wednsday  September   1st  1852 

Travel  8  miles  to  fort  Boise  cross  snake  river  in  the  evening — 
pay  $2.50  per  wagon  good  grass  on  the  north  side  of  the  river. 
(61) 

Thursday  Sept  2nd 

Travel  15  miles  to  a  large  creek — good  grass — camp  at  10  oclock 
in  the  night  very  dusty  roads.  (62) 

Friday  3nd  Sep   1852 

T  2y2  miles — down  the  river  to  a  spring — good  grass  and  water 
— wood  scarce.  . 

Saturday  Sept  4th 

Start  at  2  oclock  a  m  Travel  12  miles  to  Sulphur  Springs — 
by  8  oclock  p  m  Travel  12  miles  further  to  Birch  creek — not 
much  grass  water  and  wood  plenty. 

59.  Probably   a   little   above    the   present   city   of   Boise. 

60.  It    is     difficult    to     understand    why    James     Akin    should    call    this 
"Salmon  River"  as  he  gave  it  correctly  in  the  preceding  entry.       The   stream 
is,    of    course,    the    Boise    River   which    is    here    flowing    nearly    west.        The» 
travel    down    its   valley    some   fifty    miles   to    Fort    Boise   which    is   on    SnaKc 
River  eight  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Boise. 

61.  The    ferrymen's    prices     seem    to     increase     as     the     emigrants    ap- 
proach   Oregon    and    the    California    gold    fields.         Snake    river    forms    the 
boundary    line    here    between    Idaho    and    Oregon,    so    they    are    now    withi»« 
the  limits  of  the  latter  state. 

62.  The  "large   creek"   must  have  been  the   Malheur  River.       The   road 
has    turned    away    from    the    Snake    River    but    returns    to     it    again    about 
twenty-five  miles  beyond  the  Malheur,   near  Burnt  River. 


26  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  OKLAHOMA 

Sunday  5  Sept  1852 

Travel  10  miles  to  burnt  river — camp  at  1  o'clock  not  much 
grass — herd  the  cattle  on  willows — wood  plenty.  (63) 

Monday  Sept.  6th 

Travel  10  miles — Stop  at  noon  and  stay  the  balance  of  the 
day — windy  and  cold  nights  considerable  sickness  in  the  com- 
pany— willow  wood  and  water  plenty. 

Tuesday  Sept  7th  1852 

Travel  18  miles — leave  burnt  river — very  rough  hilly  roads 
camp  on  a  branch  of  burnt  river — no  grass — wood  and  water 
plenty. 

Wednsday  Spt  8 

Travel  11  miles — rough  roads — camp  at  noon  on  burnt  river — 
grass — wood  and  water  plenty. 

Thursday  Sept  9th  1852 

Lay  by  all  day  on  account  of  sickness,  company,  all  left  except 
uncle  Stuart  and  Caleb  Richey — not  much  grass — wood  and 
water  plenty. 

Eliza  Ann  Richey  daughter  of  Stuart  Richey  died  at  9  o'clock 
P.  M.  (64) 

Friday  Sept  10th 

Start  at  noon"  and  travel  9  miles — good  roads  camp  on  small 
creek — not  much  grass — wood  and  water  plenty. 

Saturday  Sept  llth  1852 

Travel  23  miles — very  dusty  roads — camp  on  dry  branch — not 
much  water  camp  at  9  o'clock — grass  pretty  good. 

Sunday  Sept  12th 

Travel  16  miles — very  good  roads — fine  showers  in  the  af- 
ternoon— camp  on  a  branch  of  powder  river  grass — wood  and 
water  plenty. 

63.  Burnt    River    flows    into    Snake     River    a    little    below    the    present 
town    of    Huntingdon.        They  will   now  travel   up  Burnt    River   about   twenty- 
eight    miles    to    its    great    bend     near    where    the    present    town    of    Durkee 
is   located. 

64.  Apparently    the     company    is    becoming    scattered    again.         This     ii 
the  sixth  death  in  the  party.       The  roads  are  rough  and,  judged  by  measure 
ments    made    on    the    maps,    James    Akin    seems    to    be    slightly    overestimating 
the   number   of   miles  traveled   in   most   cases. 


THE  JOURNAL  OF  JAMES  AKIN  JR.  27 

Monday  Sept  13th  1852 

Travel  12  miles — good  roads  and  cool  day — noon  at  powder 
river — camp  on  a  small  creek  good  grass  wood  and  water.  (65) 

Tuesday  Sept  14th 

Travel  16  miles  to  the  west  Side  of  grand  round  bought  some 
beef  at  20  cts  per  pound — excellent  grass  and  water — pine  wood. 
(66) 

Wednesday  Sept  15th  1852 

Lay  by  all  day — great  many  comped  here  on  account  of  sick- 
ness— and    to    recrute    their   teams    plenty   of    Kioose    (Cayuse) 
indians  with  vegetables  to  sell 
Abe  Gilliam  died. 

Thursday  Sept  16th 

Lost  9  of  our  cattle — hunt  for  them  all  day  and  find  them  just 
at  Sunset — considerable  sickness  in  company. 

Friday  Sept  17th  1852 

Travel  15  miles — cross  the  blue,  mountains  and  grand  round 
river — roughest  roads  we  have  ever  had — travel  through  pine 
timber  all  day  camp. 

Saturday  Sept  18th 

Travel  13  miles  through  thick  timber  and  rough  roads  with 
out  water — camp  on  a  creek — plenty  water  and  wood — some 
grass — tie  the  cattle  at  night.  (67) 

Sunday  Sept  19th  1852 

Start  at  10  o'clock — travel  5  miles — through  the  timber  roads 
better.,  camp  in  the  timber — same  grass — not  much  water. 

Monday  Sept  20th 

Travel  10  miles — good  roads — to  umatilla  river  pass  a  Kioose 
(Cayuse)  village —  camp  on  the  river  grass  scarce,  the  cayuse 
was  holding  a  war  dance  when  we  passed  them,  they  was  in  war 
custom.  (68) 

65.  Following    the    main    line    of    the     Oregon     Trail    it     is    sixty    miles 
from    Burnt    River    to    Powder    River.        James    Akin    makes    it    about    sixty- 
five,    assuming    that    six    of    the    twelve    miles    traveled    September    13th    were 
made    in   the   forenoon. 

66.  The     word     is     Grande     Ronde.         This    was    a     circular     valley     in 
the     mountains,     noted     as     an     excellent     camping     place.         It    was    at    this 
point    that    the    trail    started    across    the    difficult    Blue    Mountains _  which    will 
explain    his    entry:    "great    many    camped    here    on    account    of    sickness    and 
to    recruit    their    teams."        The    price    of    beef    must    have    seemed    to    them 
very    high          The    next    entry    records    the    seventh    death    in    the    company, 
and   the   last  one   that   occurred    among   them   while   on   the   trail. 

67.  They    are    in    a    thickly    timbered    region    which,    coupled    with  their 
experience  of   September   16th,  causes  them  to  "tie  the  cattle  at  night." 

68.  They  must  have   reached   the   Umatilla   River  not  very  far  from  the 
site    of    the    present    town    of    Pendleton.        "War    custom"    of    course    means 
war    costume. 


28  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  OKLAHOMA 

Tuesday  Sept  21st  1852 

Travel    12   miles    down   the   river — good   roads — rained   in   the 
morning — camp  on  the  river — no  grass — wood  and  water  plenty. 

Wednsday  Sept  22nd 

Lay  by  till  noon — travel  11  miles  dry  camp — plenty  grass  no 
wood  or  water. 

Thursday  Sept  23rd 

Travel  7  miles  to  umatilla  camp,  at  noon — Lay  by  the  balance 
of  the  day — plenty  wood  and  grass.  . 

Friday  Sept  24 

Travel  12  miles  to  Umatilla  river  and  agency  to  butter  creek 
camp  on  creek — good  grass  wood  and  water.      (69) 

Saturday  Sept  25th   1852 

Lay  by  all  day — plenty   of  umatilla  indians — about   the   camp 
all  night  plenty  grass — wood  and  water. 

Sunday  Sept  26th 

Start  at  noon — travel  10  miles — dry  camp — no  wood  or  water — 
grass  plenty. 

Monday  Sept  27th  1852 

Travel  12  miles  to  wells  Springs — water  scarce  and  not  good — 
travel  6  miles  further — dry  camp —  not  much  grass. 

Tuesday  Sept  28th 

Start  at  3  o'clock  A.  M.  travel  9  miles  to  willow  creek — water 
scarce — not  much  grass — wood  plenty.     (70) 

Wednsday  Sept  29th 

Start  at  noon — travel  12  miles  hilly  roads — very  windy  day — 
camp — no  wood — water  or  grass. 

Thursday  Sept  30th  1852 

Start  at  day  light — travel  18  miles — good  roads  camp  on  John 
daye  river  plenty  wood  and  water — (71) 

69.  The    main    trail    in    early   times    followed   down    the    Umatilla    River 
about   forty-five  miles  to   the   Columbia.        The   Akin   party,    however,   evident- 
ly   leave    the     Umatilla    while     yet    several     miles    from    the     Columbia    and 
turn    nearly    due    west,    traveling    almost    parallel    with    that    river    for    eighty 
or    ninety    miles    and    not    reaching    it    until    they    arrive    at    a    point    just 
above  the  mouth   of   the   Des   Chutes. 

70.  Willow    Creek    flows    into    the    Columbia    at    the    present    town    of 
Willows. 

71.  John   Day  River  forms  the   boundary  between    Sherman   and    Gilliam 
Counties.       It  was  named  for  John   Day  of  the  Astoria  post. 


THE  JOURNAL  OF  JAMES  AKIN  JR.  29 

Friday  Oct  1st 

Travel  12  miles — cross  John  daye  river — camp  6  miles  from 
river  no  water  or  wood — good  grass — good  roads.  (72) 

Saturday  Oct  2nd 

Start  at  mid  night — travel  12  miles  by  sun  rise  get  breakfast 
travel  5  miles  further  to  Columbia  river — camp  on  the  de  chute 
river. 

Sunday  Oct  3rd 

Cross  de  chute  river  before  breakfast — start  at  noon  and  travel 
6  miles  camp  on  a  creek — not  much  wood — plenty  water  and 
grass. 

Monday  Oct  4th  1852 

Travel  10  miles — down  Columbia  river — pass  the  dalles — flour 
wood — plenty  water  and  grass — camp  in  two  miles  of  the 
dalles. 

Tuesday  Oct  5th 

Travel  10  miles — down  Columbia  river — pass  the  dalles — flour 
35  cts  per  pound  camp  in  Columbia  river  bottom —  wood  and 
water  and  grass  plenty.  (73) 

Wednesday   Oct  6th 

Travel  2  miles — camp  and  go  to  preparing  to  raft  down  the 
river — haul  some  pine  logs  to  the  river  grass  plenty. 

Thursday  Oct  7th 

Cut  logs  and  cork  wagon  beds  all  day  very  windy  evening  and 
night  plenty  of  wood  water  and  grass,  boats-canoes  running 
up  and  down  the  river. 

Friday  Oct  8th  1852 

very  windy  coll  day — haul  logs  all  day — no  boats  running  cattle 
doing  very  well.  . 

Saturday  Oct  9th 

Still  preparing  our  raft  to  go  down  the  river — blustering  cool 
weather. 

Sunday  Oct  10th 

James  Nicholson  and  John  T.  Stewart  arid  John  Akin  start 
with  the  cattle  on  the  pack  trail.  (74) 

72.  The    meaning    of    this    entry    is    not    clear.        Perhaps    they    travel- 
ed down  John  Day  some  miles  before  crossing. 

73.  At    the    Dalles    they    are    about    sixteen    miles    below    the    mouth 
of    the    Des     Chutes    River.         There    was    splendid    pine    timber    here    and 
it    was    natural    that    they    should    prepare    to    "raft    down    the    river"    as    he 
says  in  the  next  entry  since  they  were  below  the  obstruction  of  the  Dalles. 

74.  Once   the    raft    of   logs    and   wagon    beds   was   ready   it   was   expect- 
ed  that   the   journey   down   the    river   would   be   made   quickly,    so   they    sent 
these   three   men   on   with   the   cattle. 


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THE  JOURNAL  OF  JAMES  AKIN  JR.  31 

Monday  Oct  llth  1852 

Calm  day — take  our  raft  to  pieces — put  it  togather  again. 

Tuesday  Oct  12th 

Start  down  the  river  about  10  o'clock  travel  6  miles — wind  up 
stream. 

Wednsday   Oct   13th 

Travel  5  miles — high  winds  up  the  river — camp  in  a  big  willow 
thicket — plenty  of  wood. 

Thursday   Oct   14th   1852 

Travel  5  miles — all  leave  the  raft  and  go  down  the  river  in  an 
indian  canoe — except  uncle  Stuart  and  W.  A.  Coulter.     (75) 
(This  is  the  last  entry  left  by  James  Akin) 

Friday   Oct   15th 

reach  the  cascades  about  2  O'clock  in  the  evening  every  one 
sick  Stayed  until  my  father  and  Coulter  came  with  the  raft 
and  the  cattle  came  and  then  we  went  to  the  lower  cascades 
and  camped  there  until  the  Steam  Boat  came  from  Portland, 
this  is  my  rememberance — 

EDGAR  RICHEY. 

Mrs..  Nancy  Hanson  tells  me  that  we  paid  the  indians 
who  brought  us  down  in  the  canoe — twenty  dollars  in  -money 
and  our  big  tent 

our  little  Sister  mary  ann  Akin  died  at  the  lower  cascades  and 
was  buried  their  we  were  at  the  cascades  about  a  week  waiting 
for  a  steam  boat  to  bring  us  to  portland 

our  father  James  Akin  died  two  weeks  after  we  reached  port- 
land  (76) 

Frances  Akin  now  Rowe 

Stuart  Richey,  Caleb  Richey,  and  James  Akins  children 
settled  in  Pleasant  valley  10  miles  east  of  Portland. 

Settled  in  the  Spring  of  1853  and  hewed  our  farms  out  of 
the  timber  which  cost  $100  per  acer  and  more. 

75.  Apparently    voyaging    by    raft    was    not    as    successful    as    they    had 
hoped,     partly    due    to    the    fact    that    high    winds    were    blowing    up    stream. 
It    can    be    imagined    too   that    they   were    perhaps    none    too    skillful    either    in 
making   or    navigating   such    a    craft.        The    Indians    along    the    Columbia   had 
large     canoes    and    found    profitable     employment     in    transporting     emigrants 
down  the  river. 

This  is  the  last  entry  made  by  James  Akin.  There  are  three  more 
entries  in  the  little  book,  however,  all  apparently  made  many  years  later, 
One  is  by  James  Akin's  sister  Frances  Akin-Rowe  and  the  other  two  are 
by  Edgar  Richey.  These  entries  explain  themselves. 

76.  Mary    Akin    is    the    eighth    member    of    the    party    that    died    before 
they   reached   their    destination   though   only    seven    died   while    on   the   trail. 


32  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  OKLAHOMA 

John  Akin  went  one  or  two  dys  and  gets  sick  and  is  taken 
in  the  canoe  and  i  take  his  place  with  the  cattle — we  stayed  in 
Portland  that  winter  and  then  moved  out  on  the  ranch  flour  40 
dollars  per  bbl  pickled  pork  60  dollars  per  bbl  potatoes  5 
dollars  per  bushel  and  every  thing  at  the  same  rate — we  paid 
common  cows  one  hundred  dollars  one  yoke  oxen  $250  one  hog 
twenty  dollars.  (77) 

EDGAR  RICKEY 

77.  Stuart  Richey  took  the  Akin  children  to  live  with  him  on  his 
homestead  in  Pleasant  Valley,  since  their  father  and  mother  were  both 
dead.  Stuart  Richey  lived  there  until  his  death,  and  his  daughter  still 
lives  (in  1919)  on  the  old  homestead.  All  of  the  older  members  of  the 
party  are  dead  but  some  of  the  children  who  made  the  journey  are  still 
living.  James  Akin  Jr.,  died  some  years  ago  but  his  younger  brother 
Frank  Akin  is  still  living.  In  fact  there  are  many  members  of  the 
Akin  and  Richey  families  still  living  in  Oregon,  all  prosperous  and  res- 
pected citizens.  They  brought  with  them,  or  had  sent  over,  many  seeds 
and  scions  of  trees  and  shrubs  from  Iowa,  which  they  have  planted  about 
their  home.  It  is  commonly  said  in  that  community  that  you  can  tell 
where  any  member  of  the  Richey  family  lives  by  the  trees  about  the 
house.  The  sour  elms  and  hard  maples  which  they  brought  from  Iowa 
are  especially  beautiful,  having  grown  wonderfully  well  in  the  Oregon  soil 
and  climate.  (Statement  of  Mrs.  D.  H.  Hartley.) 


